My friend told me a secret point.It's actually not really secret for locals but it's a lot less people and breaks many spot.We checked out couple days ago but it wasn't so good and not big.
This afternoon,I went there by myself and it was looks good.Not so big but looks really fun.So I change to wetsuit right a way and get in water.A shoulder size wave was coming in front of me,so I caught a first wave.It's really good feeling.I was missing beach break for almost 2 month.Surfers are mellow and we had many breaks.About a hour later,I finished warming up then wind got calm down and surface was getting glassy.I was like "wow it's paradise".Wave was getting curly and I got in many barrels.I had 2 of shoulder size nice barrels to the left and got out of them.Wahoo!!!And one headhigh deep barrel with amazing view but I couldn't get out of it.But it's all good.
I met a nice grom surfer and gave him my card.He is a really nice guy and surfs good.I said "hi!"to his father too.
Today was a beautiful day.Thanks god.
