I went to bed early last night and woke up 3:30 in morning.I cooked big breakfast and ate.I got ready and outside was still dark.I checked outside air temperature but it wasn't so cold.It's looks like been rainy before and it's just lightly mist.So I went to ahead to a beach.
It's so fun biking trail in the dark with out a flash light.When I got there at 5AM,anyone at beach except me and a lady picking trash can.Wave was looks awesome,shoulder to headhigh at set and lightly off shore.Noone in water.Wave was breaking right there n there and over there.It's still not enough light but O.K.let's go,I'm alone though.
When I warming up,one guy was coming and that made me comfortable because in water by myself is not great situation just in case something happen.2 more guy was coming in and we're sharing good waves.
30minutes to a hour later,we had enough light but already 10-15 people out there.Also wind started blowing and no more glassy surface.After that crowd increased and windy and I was getting cold,I got a lot of backside lefty long riding today,so I got out of water.
I went home and ate second breakfast and took big nap.
By the way,my board "Dragon" is good for beach breaks,no wonder I made it for beach breaks.
Photo and shaped by Mitch
